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#11671 Dogs!

Posted by roofwayne on 03 June 2012 - 12:42 PM

I like Dogs, not cats!!! Here my Old Dog, Annie, 11 years old.

 Since the pic disappeared here some more. I miss her!

Attached Files


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#111906 We Are...

Posted by PureGro1 on 05 November 2013 - 09:52 AM

Stoners of the Haven

 

We work longer and harder doing what we do than most can imagine.

 

We are Friendly, Helpful, Dependable, Loyal, Trusting, Doubtless, Generous and Genuine.

 

We spend more time than can be counted thinking about life and our role in it- for ourselves and for others.

 

We are Happy and we are Free.

 

We love what we do and wish to share this gift with others, We are compassionate, Understanding, Accepting and Forgiving.

 

We don't worry About Race, Social Status, Ethnicity or any other means to separate us as human beings.

 

We wont give up, We wont give in. We can not be Defeated.

 

We survive our trials and we endure the Lies spread about MMJ, In the end We will Win.

 

We would like to smoke one to all the Stoners of the Haven, We are all Together-

 

We all accept each above all else because we are all Stoners.

 

We are All One Heart, One Love.

 

We Are Stoners of the Haven....


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#102885 Getting Hashy With It ;)

Posted by fumble on 12 September 2013 - 02:15 PM

Just thought I would show you how I make my dry ice hash. Most people just use one bucket and put the bag on and shake away with the dry ice. I have come up with a different method that lets me get more buck for my bang lol. By using two buckets, the bag doesn't get all gummed up from the dry ice, making it easier to get more.  It may say 'dry' ice, but it does have moisture ;)

 

so...first up we have our bag of goodness - 600 grams of Purple Power good nuggety trim, our two buckets - 1 with a lid, dry ice, golf balls, and some tongs   Attached File  DSCN2462.JPG   39.3KB   26 downloads

 

Working in batches, pour some trim into the bucket with the lid. Put in a few good size chunks of dry ice and some golf balls (they help to break things down). Put the lid on the bucket and shake your ass off. Careful now, or you may end up wearing it and break out in hives :o   Attached File  DSCN2463.JPG   37.11KB   50 downloads

 

After the first round is broken up, I transfer to the second bucket, removing the golf balls and all bits of dry ice. I try to get out all the little pieces too. After you have done all the shaking with the dry ice and have all material in the second bucket you are ready for the bag  Attached File  DSCN2465.JPG   25.68KB   26 downloads

 

just slip it down over the bucket til it has the mesh over the opening, then pull the drawstrings tight and hold well. Now the fun begins...Attached File  DSCN2466.JPG   30.73KB   25 downloads   Attached File  DSCN2467.JPG   27.04KB   26 downloads   Attached File  DSCN2468.JPG   30.04KB   26 downloads   Scrape up all dust with credit card or something similar  Attached File  DSCN2469.JPG   32.51KB   24 downloads  Attached File  DSCN2473.JPG   23.14KB   27 downloads

 

I got 55.6 grams of nice brown sugar dry ice hash. I put 5.6 aside and decarbed the 50  Attached File  DSCN2475.JPG   35.29KB   139 downloads   Attached File  DSCN2478.JPG   40.26KB   51 downloads  notice the change in the decarbed?  Attached File  DSCN2479.JPG   51.08KB   97 downloads

 

After the decarb, I added my lecithin granules and  coconut oil and proceded to make some liquid black gold :) and am ready to make whatever Attached File  DSCN2508.JPG   29.44KB   23 downloads   Attached File  DSCN2549.JPG   21.05KB   27 downloads   thanks for checking it out :)


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#40606 Members Bill Of Rights

Posted by PureGro1 on 19 September 2012 - 09:30 AM

 

Attached File  bill of rights.jpg   11.94KB   28 downloads

 

Also Take a Look at

Stoner Haven Community Guidelines

 

Stoner Haven Privacy Policy

 

 

First lets look at what we have a right to do, and conversely don't have a right to do....

We do not, under the Bill of Rights, have the right to say whatever we want to whenever we want to, no matter who it hurts.

We have the right to express our opinions, ideas and even to protest as long as it is on open public property, is neither liable or slanderous, and as long as it does not insight a riot or cause physical harm to another being.

This right extends only to public domain. The rights of a Private Property Owner out weights the right of an individual to express their ideas … meaning … You can scream FIRE to your heart’s content in the middle of the public park but you sure cannot inside a theater!

So you have the right to protest - loudly - a law or court order or court judgment or a political ideology and even to express your religious ideas. But you do not have the right to do so inside the court house where you will disrupt the proceedings.

You cannot go into another person's church and start screaming from the pulpit about your politics. You can't go into a grocery store and hold a sit-down protest about the death penalty. And you can't stand inside the lobby of a Doctor's office and rage about the War in Iraq! In fact you cannot go into any of those places and express your opinions without the permission and approval of the property owner!


Basic Facts

1. This forum is a privately owned website. It is owned, operated and the sole property of one entity – our Founder and Leader, Stoner.

2. It is not a public property.

3. This forum has one sole purpose - to promote the hobby and craft of Marijuana Growing, Smoking and those crafts that support the MMJ world.

4. This forum is provide to us for our use, free of charge, paid for and managed by Stoner as a free service to us that we as members need to protect and support.

Simple Truths

1. When you signed up for this forum you made a *click agreement* with the owner of this website that:

a. You would not post anything that was offensive, Spam, vulgar.

b. That you would not post anything that has been determine by our "Forum Rules" to be disturbing or destructive to the community atmosphere.

c. That you acknowledged the right of the forum owner to delete any post that they believed was offense or inappropriate to the forum members and/or inappropriate to the welfare of the community.

d. That you acknowledged that the owner of the site has the sole rights to interrupt what they consider to be appropriate or inappropriate.

e. That you acknowledge and recognized the purpose of this forum is for the promotion of Marijuana by sharing our experiences, techniques and ideas.


 

*This is pop up for terms of use upon registration. *Click Agreement*

 

Registration Terms

Forum Terms of Use

If you agree to the terms and conditions stated below, press the "Agree" button. Otherwise, press "Cancel".

 

In order to use these forums, users are required to provide a username, password and e-mail address. Neither the Administrators of Stoner Haven, or the Moderators participating, are responsible for the privacy practices of any user.

 

Remember that all information that is disclosed in these areas becomes public information and you should exercise caution when deciding to share any of your personal information. Any user who finds material posted by another user objectionable is encouraged to contact us via report post.

We are authorized by you to remove or modify any data submitted by you to these forums for any reason we feel constitutes a violation of our policies, whether stated, implied or not.

This site may contain links to other web sites and files. We have no control over the content and can not ensure it will not be offensive or objectionable. We will, however, remove links to material that we feel is inappropriate as we become aware of them.

Cookies must be turned on in your browser to fully participate as a user in these forums. Cookies are used here to hold your username and password and viewing options, allowing you to login.

By pressing the "Agree" button, you agree that you, the user, are 18 years of age or over.

You are fully responsible for any information or file supplied by this user. You also agree that you will not post any copyrighted material that is not owned by yourself or the owners of these forums. In your use of these forums, you agree that you will not post any information which is vulgar, harassing, hateful, threatening, invading of others privacy, or pornographic.

 

If you do agree with the rules and policies stated in this agreement, and meet the criteria stated herein, proceed to press the "Agree" button below, otherwise press "Cancel".

 


2. Your right of free speech is limited to open public domains.

a. You can scream "Fire" in the middle of a public street - you cannot scream "Fire" in a privately owned theater.

b. You can protest a court judgment or ruling on the court house steps which are considered public property. You cannot do so inside the court room as this is a closed domain.

3. You have the right to protest and to public peaceful gatherings in opposition. You do not have the right to insight a riot, either on public property, public domain or private property.





Respect Other Members


Right: You have the right to read the information about Marijuana Growing, projects, techniques. You also have the right to share your ideas and opinions about Marijuana and growing without fear of personal attacks. You have the right to a friendly forum where members respect each other regardless of skill level, opinions, or personal feelings. That means no name calling, questioning a person’s integrity, or openly trashing a person’s reputation online.

Discussion: Act like an adult—plain and simple. The Internet is a funny place—it’s easy to type out a comment, click “Post” and sit back and let the fur fly. There are plenty of other places on the Internet where you can do this—but it won’t be tolerated at StonerHaven.com. When you are posting something, ask yourself if you would say that to a person if you were standing next to them and looking in their face—or better yet, would you like someone to say that to you? If you have a problem with someone, send a private message (PM) to an Admin or one of the Moderators!

Give New Members A Break


Right: New members have the right to post specific questions. They may have little or no experience about Marijuana—or posting on message boards—and it may be easier for them to just post their question rather than try to find the answer to their question in earlier posts.

Discussion: New members need a way to break the ice, introduce themselves, and get a feel for the other members. They also usually have legitimate questions—remember, we were all newbies once! Cut them a little slack if they ask a question that has been asked over and over. If you don’t feel like posting the same reply you just posted last week, post a link to your last thread. Everyone has something to add to our discussions because everyone brings different life experience to the forum—we wouldn’t want to stifle the next Shanti Baba or Jorge Cervates, would we?

Off Topic Post s


Right: You have the right to post whatever you want in the Off-Topic area as long as it isn’t offensive. If you think it might be offensive, check with an Admin, or one of the moderators.

Discussion:
A general question about something happening in the world is one thing, but don’t write a doctoral dissertation on why one political party or race or religion is better than another.

There are Forum areas for Politics and Religion.

Advertising On The Forum


Right: All members have a right to post their opinion, but no member has the right to use the site to promote his or her own business without permission from Stoner or an Admin.

Discussion: People will always post about their favorite Products—how else will people decide to try something new.

Links to other sites


Right: You have the right to post links to other related sites. If it is your site, we would appreciate a reciprocal link back to our site. Please don’t post a site that is in direct competition to our site—that’s not fair! Directing people to a totally unrelated website (commonly known as SPAM) is not allowed. Spammers will be banned without warning.

Discussion: The forum is a great place to bring together a variety of information and resources. There should be a relatively free exchange of information. But don’t post a link to a website that is in direct competition to StonerHaven.com. If you have a question about a link you’d like to post, PM an Admin, or one of the Moderators.


Handling Complaints


Right: You have the right to complain to the Admins or Moderators if you have a problem with a post. If you have a problem with a person, use the Private Message function. You do not have the right to post a complaint about someone in an open forum.

Discussion: Please don’t take things into your own hands. Trust the Admins and Moderators. If you have a problem with a post, PM An Admin, or one of the Moderators—we will investigate and we may ask the person to edit his or her post—or delete it outright.


Posts


Right: You have the right to ask us to remove a Post(s) you have made in the past.

Discussion: If you feel you need a post(s) removed, edited, etc. Please PM an Admin or Moderator, We may or may not be able to do this depending on several factors- One of which is loss of information to the community. We will do our best to help you!

Journal


Right: You have the right to freedom in your journals, you are free to decide if a post by someone other than yourself should be removed for any reason.

Discussion: An Example would be if your journal is dedicated to growing using Grape juice and Dixie cups and someone comes to your journal and says this won’t work because a, b and c… we can remove that post for you- Conversely you couldn’t make a thread stating Grape juice and Dixie cups are best for growing and expect these rights. Your Journal is your space to do as you like, State your theory’s and not have to defend your growing style.
If you feel a post(s) needs removed, edited, etc. Please PM an Admin or Moderator; we will do our best to help you!




  • You have the right to your privacy and the privacy of your posts and pictures will be respected and maintained. Your name, address, phone number, personal information or individual responses to PM’s won't be disclosed to anyone without your explicit permission.
  • You have the right to have an opportunity to not just be heard, but to have your ideas considered fully by the Administrators and Moderators, and frequently have those ideas acted upon.
  • To have a journal that only includes information you want in your journal. You have the right to freedom in your journals; you are free to decide if a post by someone other than yourself should be removed for any reason.
  • You have the right to a friendly forum where members respect each other regardless of skill level, opinions, or personal feelings.
  • You have the right to post whatever you want in the Off-Topic area as long as it isn’t offensive. If you think it might be offensive, check with an Admin, or one of the moderators.
  • All members have a right to post their opinion, but no member has the right to use the site to promote his or her own business without permission from Stoner or an Admin.
  • You have the right to post links to other related sites. If it is your site, we would appreciate a reciprocal link back to our site. Please don’t post a site that is in direct competition to our site—that’s not fair! Directing people to a totally unrelated website (commonly known as SPAM) is not allowed. Spammers will be banned without warning.
  • You have the right to complain to the Admins or Moderators if you have a problem with a post. If you have a problem with a person, use the Private Message function to contact an admin or moderator. You do not have the right to post a complaint about someone in an open forum.
  • You have the right to expect a clear and concise decision on rule violations. You have the right to expect to be treated fairly and problems to be handled as quickly as possible.
  • You have the right to enjoy www.Stonerhaven.com and all that it offers without feeling attacked, Marginalized or ignored!
     

 

Thanks to Member ( MellowFarmer post-40-0-78872300-1336573549.gif ) and her suggestion, We introduced Stoner Havens Members Bill of Rights 9/19/12!

 

 


  • Stoner, mjdudeist, greengenez and 18 others like this


#156516 Stuff of Legend's

Posted by Legend on 06 June 2014 - 08:12 AM

Hello and welcome!

 

Here is where I'll be sharing my not so simple life. Projects I have going on around the farm and animals I'm raising up.

 

For those that don't know me, I moved out to the country from the cities when I was 9. My father was a contractor/mechanic and wanted to get away from it all.

 

We moved into a shitty little 40 acre farmhouse that I took over when I turned 18 and have since been rebuilding everything. In my 30's now and have come a long way.

 

I've totally remodeled the farm house and now working on the farm. Last year I put up a new barn and this year I'm trying to rebuild the old.

 

Lot's to do, never enough time. Here's some of the stuff I have going on right now. Feel free to ask any questions. :)

 

Two orphan fawns I'm raising, mothers hit by cars.

 

post-997-0-08367900-1402023460_thumb.jpg

 

Old barn I'm tearing down and rebuilding.

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New barn I built last year.

1237008_10151880952500329_823446117_n.jpAttached File  DSCF2084.JPG   32.46KB   8 downloads

 

Random photos from around the farm.

1471168_10152121992395329_396661798_n.jp10246235_10152414777350329_44185935484311380365_10151952678425329_1818418497_n.j1016646_10151730289000329_1351346480_n.j1017010_10151880311215329_1420034864_n.j580769_10151126481040329_1678430497_n.jp1236801_10151880311290329_1477597845_n.j1003415_10151730289890329_1545512400_n.j306144_10151536020240329_1375382219_n.jp

 

 


  • PureGro1, roofwayne, Llama and 18 others like this


#40626 What does the Founder and Admin do?

Posted by PureGro1 on 19 September 2012 - 10:58 AM

What Does the Forum Founder/Admin of Stoner Haven Actually Do? (a Guide for Forum Users)


Generally speaking, if We do our job as forum administrators, members don’t have to see much of what we do behind the scenes to keep things running smoothly. That is for us to worry about – not something for them to be concerned with.

We tend to believe that this is how most people approach the role: We have work to do and were doing it. we don’t care if people know about it or if people know how hard we work or if we get credit for it.

Consequentially, only a small percentage of people know even half of the responsibilities that someone has, when they run a structured online community.
Sometimes, though, it’d be helpful if they did. If they knew what it took to run that community that they love, that they derive some benefit from.

That’s the aim here. To give you an idea of what it takes to keep these forums running well. This isn’t an all-inclusive list, and it may not completely apply to everyone.
Yes, They Remove Spam

Most users know this much: administrators remove spam (or advertising, as I like to call it). If they see something to handle, They take care of it. From the smallest task to the largest. From the once off spam post to a serious threat to the community.
Dealing with spam is definitely a regular part of managing an online forum. It may be the part that most identify with, but it is a very small part of the overall role.
Guideline Violations

Spam probably isn’t the only reason a post is removed on your forum. Most active communities have some sort of guidelines that detail the types of activities that are and are not allowed. If you want to know what else is not allowed, in addition to spam, take a look at the guidelines on the forums that you visit.
As an example, if you were to read the guidelines of a random forum, here are some things that you will find as inappropriate on some forums: advertising, cross posting (posting the same content in two or more forums), personal, real life contact information (like a home address or telephone number), vulgarities, hotlinking, discussion of illegal activities, copyright infringement, political and religious discussions, inflammatory (disrespectful) comments and more.
Some of these items may matter to you, some may not. For example, you may not care much about the discussion of illegal activities or whether or not one of your fellow members is violating someone’s copyright. But, these issues can have an impact on the long term stability of the forums. Communities that are not proactively managed in these areas can run the risk of either partial or full deactivation.

Viewing Reported Posts

Moderating isn’t just for moderators. When an administrator sees it, it is handled right then and there, on most productive communities.
Writing Policy

Speaking of guidelines, policy writing is part of managing a forum. This is primarily through the guidelines – whether it be adjusting or removing a current guideline or adding to the guidelines in order to address a new challenge. This may seem easy, but guidelines need to be well written and clearly communicated.
On top of that, there can be specific guidelines or “read me first” posts for individual forums.
Community Infrastructure and Design


The way that your forums are organized – the forums, categories and more – was likely decided by the administrators and is adjusted by them, as well. Good organization makes the forum easy to navigate and more inviting for new members because it showcases the content of the community in the most attractive manner possible.
When speaking of design and the way that the forums look, there is a good chance that administrators have played some role in this, whether it be designing it themselves, picking a pre-made style or template and customizing it or consulting with a designer.
Many make changes or tweaks themselves. Does a button need to be changed? A link added? There is a fair chance the admins do this.
Technology and Keeping the Site Online

Some forums have a person dedicated to tech issues, but many (most?) do not. For those that don’t, the responsibility likely falls on an administrator.
When there is some kind of error, they research it and fix it, drawing on publicly available resources and people dedicated to providing assistance for these issues.
A very important part of this is keeping the software that the forums use up to date. What happens if the software is not up to date? In a worst case scenario, the outdated software has a security issue that is exploited, allowing the site to be hacked. The forums can be taken offline and erased and other damage can be done.
The administrator often makes decisions regarding web hosting, which is a service that makes the forums accessible to visitors through the web. They also ensure that the domain name registration is kept up to date, if applicable, and work to make sure that the site is regularly backed up, in case of an emergency.
Managing the Staff

If your favorite forums have moderators, there is a good chance that they are supervised by an administrator. The admins provide some form of training for them and a private staff area that allows for discussion and documentation of any actions taken by a member of staff. It’s almost like a community within the community, that has to be managed in it’s own special way.
We see and review every action taken by a member of staff. We praise them when they do well and step in when something must be fixed, helping to prevent it from happening in the future. Sometimes, this requires a message to a member and, if appropriate, an apology.
We interact with them, answer questions and encourage them, as best as we can. We keep tabs and also note if anyone disappears for an extended period of time unannounced, so that we can check in with them and make sure that everything is OK.
Interacting with and Responding to Members

Admins most often handle general inquiries, no matter what they may be. we regularly respond to members via e-mail and private message and occasionally elsewhere.
This personal response to everyone who contacts us (anyone who is not a banned member will always receive a reply from us, with the best answer we can reasonably provide) takes a great deal or time, but is worth it.
And, of course, we also interact with members on the community, where we post, comment and contribute like anyone else.

Have a Problem? Guess Who Probably Fixes It!

If you have any sort of problem with the site, odds are that an administrator is the one who fixes it or works with you to fix it. Whether you received an error, forgot your password, didn’t receive your welcome e-mail or need some help uploading an avatar, they are there.
Be a Good Influence

Administrators are the ultimate example to their communities. we believe that the admin is a big part of the tone of the forums and they should take seriously how they themselves contribute.
We welcome people to the forums. we randomly thank people publicly who make a particularly helpful or well thought out comment. When we notice a long term member has returned after a long break, we send them a private message welcoming them back.
When we notice a member who has been an exceptionally good contributor over an extended period, we send them a private message thanking them and making sure that they know that we see the great stuff they are doing and that we appreciate it. When we see someone who is timid or feels awkward in joining a new group, we do what we can to encourage them.
Not everyone appreciates what good admins do for a forum. But, a good admin always appreciates the people who make great contributions to the forums. And, though a member who makes a mistake may not always apologize – when it is us who make one, we need to.
Take Abuse


Community administrators take a lot of abuse. If they aren’t taking abuse, they aren’t really doing their job. We have a responsibility and we do it to the best of our ability. And that means removing content and contacting people. Some people don’t like to be told they can’t do something. Some people decide they are bigger than the guidelines, bigger than the forums and think they can do whatever they want. When their access is blocked, they take it out on the administrator.
We are called Hitler, Stalin and Gestapo Our sexual preference is questioned. People hurl insults to do with the nationality of our name. We deal with weird ones who stalk us through PM.
In short, we take a lot of abuse. And yet, most of us don’t share it publicly or talk about it much. we probably don’t even respond to these people. we document it, try to laugh at it and get back to work. Sometimes people complain about their buddy who was banned from a forum they visit. Little do they know that sometimes, their buddy was a monster.
Everything That You See, the Administrator Probably Touches

In one way or another, most everything you see on your forum is touched by the administrator. When you see an active community, it’s usually not because it magically popped up by itself. It’s because someone cared enough to cultivate it.
They Demand More of Themselves Than They Do of You

If you think that the admin is being particularly demanding of you, chances are they are demanding even more of themselves. It’s not that an administrator has to be perfect, but a mistake made by an admin is magnified. we are very careful about what we put out on our forum and how we speak to others because we are setting the example. we take our time and try to get it right.
At times, it may be a burden, but it is the role that we chose.
Yes, Some Administrators Are Monsters

Before anyone comments saying that some administrators are jerks, egomaniacs and have no idea what they are doing, yes, We agree. Some are. Don’t forget that a forum administrator is only a human being and, as such, it is natural that some will be monsters, just like it’s natural that some people will be. Some of them are terrible and abusive. No doubt. And you have my sympathy.
But, more often than not, they are just a person doing the best that they can in a role that not many people truly understand. They aren’t perfect, but they try. Like most people do.
If you enjoy a forum that you participate in, I hope that this information gives you a greater understanding of some of the responsibilities that your admins have and what they do behind the scenes to keep everything on track.
  • roofwayne, Cashcropper, xmoonx and 17 others like this


#13526 Dogs!

Posted by Rob. on 08 June 2012 - 04:28 PM

just a few of the puppies i had

Attached Files


  • roofwayne, Cashcropper, mjdudeist and 17 others like this


#93430 Random Think

Posted by BlueDreams on 05 August 2013 - 09:39 PM

Hey joe!

 

My neighbor pulled this out of the lake behind his house yesterday...

 

Attached File  j's fish.png   390.42KB   30 downloads Attached File  js fish.jpeg   42.55KB   24 downloads Attached File  js teeth.jpeg   42.63KB   23 downloads

 

Got him on the local news!  A Pacu from South America?


  • roofwayne, DarKwon, Llama and 16 others like this


#2484 The Scrog Method

Posted by Stoner on 07 May 2012 - 08:22 AM

The Scrog Method

So, you want to tackle a scrog do ya? Excellent choice! Scrog or SCREEN OF GREEN is one of the most productive and easiest ways to grow indoors. Now lets not get this confused with the Sea of green method. SOG involves no training nor does it have one item a scrog always has. A screen. Scrog has been around for many years. Before HID's were introduces many used floro's with this method with good success.
Now lets talk about the scrog for a little bit here. What is a scrog? What is screen of green? Well, it is just that. A screen is the main character of scrog. It is usually made of wire or something sturdy enough to hold back the growing canopy. This wire should have some holes in it about 2x2inches in size so that the plant mater can easily grow up through the wire and be supported by it. The wire is secured between the grow medium and the lamp at a distance determined by the size of your lamp. We will get into that later. The plants grow through the screen about 3-4 inches and then are pulled back under and spread out where YOU want them to grow. Its as easy as that folks. Its a great way to grow. Let me put it this way. I have tried untrained methods like SOG and have never come close to the yeild I get with a scrog. Okay, sounds easy right? So, what are you waiting for?

Getting Started
This is the hard part. Getting started. Damned if it ain't for me man. I spend hours thinkin of shit before I do it. lol Anyway, this isnt rocket science. If you've already got an area where you established plants growing you are halfway there.

The SCREEN
Remember at least 2x2inch squares. You can use chicken wire as well or even some tightly strug rope but I would suggest wire. You need something strong to support the buds and hold back the canopy growth. The screen needs to be cut to size. The size of the screen is determined by the size of your lamp. Remember that to get the good bud formation you want from 50 watts per square foot so your screen size should not exceed that. Check the examples below.

150hps screen size 1.75ft x 1.75ft

250hps screen size 2.25ft x 2.25ft

400hps screen size 2.91ft x 2.75ft

600hps screen size 3.45ft x 3.45ft

1000hps screen size 4.4ft x 4.5ft

If your screen exceeds the 50wpsf thing alittle. Thats perfectly okay. Just dont overdoit. lol Now once you've determined the size of your screen and cut it to size. Situate it over your grow area and secure it into place. Just a few screws will hold it in place. Your mounting a screen. Not a twenty pound wall painting. lol.....Wait just a minute! You need to figure out where to set the screen. First, a few questions to ask. Is your lamp air cooled and what size is your lamp? These two questions determine how close you can get to your canopy. This is very important stuff. The closer you get the better off you are. If you do not have air cooled lamps then a simple fan blowing between the canopy and the the lamp should do the trick. Okay, now lets set that screen. Here's some examples of screen settings for hps's. These are not exact settings. They are just a baseline idea. If you can get your lamp closer. Good for you. If you can't. Thats okay too. Dont worry. If you've got the right watts per footage they will produce.

150hps 10-12 inches
250hps 12-15 inches
400hps 16-20 inches
600hps 20+
1000hps 24+

Your Plants
How Many Will I Need Under The Screen? Usually the rule is one plant per square foot of screen. I go with as few plants as I can whenever possible. One side of my flower chamber is almost 3x3ft. Thats almost 9 sqft. I only have 6 plants under there and the screens are pretty full. So, the rule does not always need to be followed. Having less plants can be a good thing if they happen to discover your illegal activity..lol.....Remember with fewer plants you will have to veg a bit longer but be patient and hang in there. Its well worth the wait.

Spacing Lets talk about the spacing between the plant medium and the screen. This space will need to be large enough to allow you room to manipulate your plants during the training phase. I usually use around 8 inches. Some people use more/less. Eight seems to be just enough for me but when working in a 3x3ft space it is still a tight space for a big guy. lol.....

What Is The Best Strain To Grow In A Scrog? Now lets talk about your plants alittle bit. What kind should you be growing in a scrog you ask? Hmmmmm. Well, any kind your heart desires my friend. That's right. Most any plant strain can be grown without much difficulty using a scrog. The secret is in the screen. Some strains require more training than others but that is the only difference. Heavy yeild indica's are excellent scrog candidates but the unruley sativa can really shine with proper training and timing.

Hydro or Soil?

So, how are you going to do this scrog? Is it going to bubble, flow or just sit there? Here's some things you may consider before your plants get tangled up in the screen.

Hydro: No real problem here. I prefer to scrog with a bubbler system over soil anyday. The problem lies in the flush. I explain below.
Soil: Soil grows and scrogs are a wonderful thing. Orgainc buds rule. One problem I ran into when scroging with soil was the flushing of the medium at the end of the grow. Well, with the plants tangled in the screen. One can not just transport to the sink and flush. My soil buckets drain into catch pans. Then I have to drain the catch pans. Takes a while but it works. Hydro is much easier though.

Okay man, you just did something that will almost double your yeild in the next sixty days. So, how do you feel about that? The screen is set. Now its time to move on to other things. Lets take a look at whats going to happen when these babies start to grow through the screen.

Managing the Scrog Grow
You have done some things that are a little out of the ordinary from your usual grow regiem. Things look a little different. A wire screen has invaded your grow space and it looks weird in there. Maybe you even have a few inches growth through the screen. What in the fuck am I gonna do now? lol.......Be cool man. Here's where the real fun begins and were the beauty of scrog growing starts.

Vegging: Here is where alot of people make mistakes. They get in a fired up hurry and get confused somehow. Flip their shit over to 12/12 way to soon and wonder why their screen never filled up. At that point the screen is nothing more than a support system for the plant. Normally one would veg a plant till the screen is 70-80 percent full before switching over to the flowering cycle. Having knowlege of how much your strain stretches is helpful when determining when to switch to flowering. For example: If one had a very stretchy sativa. You would want to start flowering her with much less of the screen filled. Just the opposite for a nice stunted indica. Timing has alot to do with scrog. We go over that soon.

Pulling It Back Through: Okay, so you've got some growth through the screen. Should have about 3-4 inches aye? Don't be a pussy here. lol....... If it breaks. I'll explain what to do later. Reach under the screen and pull that branch back under the screen and place it where you want it to be. Even if it takes tying it in place with the plastic twisty ties. Now I could really get technical and shit and start with the be sure there is an internode in each hole of the screen but it really doesnt matter man. Just get the growth under the screen first. In the next few weeks. You will see were to guide the new growth to best suit your needs.

Training: This can seem brutal to some. lol........ Scrog is not natural growth for the cannabis plant. I am sure of that. It must stress the shit out of them the whole cycle of life. Imagine taking a plant that usually grows anywhere from 3-12 feet and making it grow in a space no larger than 2 foot. Training begings in the pulling it back through section. Try to situate your main branches towards the barest parts of your screen. They will branch out the most and usually be the largest bud in the bunch. Use some kind of uniformity to your laying out of the branches. Crisscross/ zigzag whatever you use. Remember theres are going to be alot more branching when flowering kicks in high gear. So allow some room for that as well. Lesser buds that are now exposed to more light are then encouraged to grow upwards toward the screen through some leaf triming. An often debated subject but one I feel that is usefull in the scrog method.

Leaf Trimming: Now we need to chat about a touchy subject. Leaf triming. Like I said above. Scrog aint natural for cannabis. At least I dont think it is. Crammed in such a small area with all those leaves. Well, somethings gotta give and its not going to be bud. lol......Here's my rule on trimming. If the leaf is in the way of light for a bud site. Then it needs to be removed. Sometimes I tuck the leaf instead of removing it but most of the time I remove it. Now, when do I do this? Usually when I do a training session. Right afterwards. This trims away leaves and allows the new sites to get light. You will be surprised at how fast they will respond. Use good judgement when trimming. To much is not a good thing here.
Trimming continues into flowering ending during the later stages of flowering. I have found it not to be harmful at all to remove large fan leaves from buds during flowering. If they are blocking light to other bud sites near by. Its all about light penetration and bud sites in a scrog.

Timing: Timing is critical when it comes to a scrog grow. You must be paying attention to the progress of your grow in order to know when to induce flowering. Knowing what strain you are dealing with and what the growing characteristices of the plant are is very helpful when it comes to timing. I cant express the importance of having a good clone base for this purpose. As mentioned above if you induce flowering to early. You will have alot less of a yield. However, if one was to wait to long. The same can happen as well. An overcrowed canopy is just as much a mess. An out of control scrog is just that. A mess. Not something you want to deal with. Remember, the plants you start to flower are probably going to double in size. Stand back and get a visual picture of that in your head. Ask yourself some questions. If I start flowering now. Can I visualize how big they will get? Do I have enough veggative growth to start flowering? Do I have to much? Is it time? Time to start flowering?
Okay, so you've decided to start. Bravo! You are going to be amazed at the buds that come out of this grow. lol....... So, you have turned back the timer to 12/12 and it has been 4 days now. The growth from the stretch is starting to show. You get in there and pull all those new shoots back under your screen and put them where you want them to be. A few more days pass. More growth. Now the decision part comes into play. Just how far over the screen do you want your buds to be? If you stop training them early in the stretch. They will grow alittle above the screen (maybe 3-6inches depending on the strian). If you continue trianing them until they start to top out. They will grow only alittle more and most of the bud will form right in the screen. This technique is great for those stetchy sativa's. However when doing this method keep an eye out for mold and try to have as much air flow between the buds as possible. I have done it both ways and they are both awsome. It may take you a grow or two to get the timing down to where you want it but once you do. I am sure you will be pleased with the results.

Clones/Seed Grows: Here's an interesting topic that is sure to generate a few questions. I suggest clones for scrog growing over seed anyday of the year. Why? With clones you usually already know the characteristics of the plant and how it will perform. With seed its usually a guessing game as to which pheno your going to get unless they are true F1 seed. Plus with seed you dont know the sex yet. Ever tried untangling a male from a screen? Not something I would suggest doing. lol......Anyways, if you grow from seed. Be sure you have cloned the lot and know who your girls are first before going under the screen. This will save you alot of hassle later on.

Damage Control: If you move branches around and bend'em. Eventually somethings gonna give. Dont freakout. Its not the end of the world man.....lol... Cannabis is an amazing plant that can recover from alot of damage naturally without help from humans but in this case ya want to help if ya can. First aid for the injured cannabis plant is simple as pie man. Just support her wound and leave her alone. She will take care of it on her own. Unless you break her completely in half she can be saved usually. You can splint the wound or support it with some heavy gauge wire around the stem. If the break is not that bad and the branch can somewhat support itself. Leave it alone. In all cases. A knot will form at the break and most times an explosion of growth will happen above the damaged area. At times even new growth sometimes sprouts from the knuckle formed.

Flowering Cycle: Once a few trimmings are done and all is set in place flowering in a scrog is pretty uneventful. lol......Good time to start thinning out your undergrowth. I take clones around 20 days 12/12. If all that I need root. I clean out the undergrowth around day 35 12/12. Now if I need anymore clones. I can tak'em at this time. All the rest. Its butter makin time........Oh yeah.......churn dat budda........talk about a bonus for all your hard work.

Undergrowth: I mentioned it above but thought I should mention it again. The undergrowth is not that big of an issue here. Its an area that should be kept clear of dead leaves and you should also ensure that proper ventilation can get through the canopy via the undergrowth. If it cant. Then thin out some growth. This is an area that is dim and often humid. An open invitation for not so good things to come visiting aye? Some people have mentioned putting a light down there. Why? There's no need for a light down there. There are no buds to be harvested there. Just stems that support the canopy. If one were to put a light there they would just be adding to the congestion of leaves already growing. Not good. It is a good idea to clear out your undergrowth as your scrog takes shape and you have taken the clones that you need for the next grow. Trim all remaining sprouts left on the stems and any other undergrowth. Now lets not get to crazy here. Leave a little growth. Use some common sense here. Take out the sites you know are not going to make it to maturity. This will help the plant direct more energy towards the larger buds instead of wasting energy on the smaller ones.

Ventilation: Here's an issue that can not be overlooked. Once a scrog has been established it is a leafy sight to behold. Air circulation becomes critical as the buds begin to form and things start to get packed in the box. 24hr air movement is suggested 7 days a week. Better safe than sorry. Mold sucks.

Even Canopy: Maybe I should not put it in those words. Your canopy does not have to be perfectly even. Just close. The idea behind this is even light distribution. We are looking for a field of buds here not a forest like in SOG. If a dominate bud is allowed to overtake the canopy. It is defeating the purpose of the scrog. Tame that bitch. Bring her down to size with the rest. You want a somewhat even field of buds to deal with. Not a forest of untamed trees. The even canopy is easy to accomplish if you have been following the steps outlined above.
TrickyTip: Occasionally you will have a stretcher that decides that she wants more light than the rest of her friends. This often happens when the branches are competing for light. If one gets out of hand there is a simple solution to taming her back into the fold of the others and possibly giving her a burst of growth. Reach under the screen and find her stem. Half way up her stem start to pull her back through the canopy till she is even with the rest. Now where she is bent. Crush her at the bend with your fingers. Dont smash it in half. Just crush the stem so as it would not be able to support itself if it were to stand alone. As mentioned above. It will heal with vigor and you have solved your canopy problem.

The Beautiful and Productive SCROG

I cant express the joy I get from growing with this wonderful method. Through the years I have tried many ways but have never found a more productive growing method. I hope by passing on this information. Others will be more motivated to start their own scrog grow. If done correctly. I can almost gaurentee you will get more yield using the scrog than using the method you use right now. Considering the cost of electricity today. Getting the most out of your grow is the best way to go in my book. Good luck in all your goals and dreams. Give scrog a try. I doubt you will be disappointed.


Greenmonster714
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#16582 STONERHAVEN.com Staff MacGyver Bowl (bong making contest)

Posted by Liveforever on 17 June 2012 - 10:18 PM

entry #5
Attached File  rw.jpg   36.95KB   39 downloads
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#223 ~~~The Perfect Cure~~~

Posted by nunia720 on 26 April 2012 - 07:16 AM

I stole this but had seen it before so I think I jacked it from someone who jacked it! Point is I did not come up w/it but am currently ttrying it for the first time. Seems to be working well. I found Hygrometers for $4 to the door on ebay. I will post the link at the end of this.

Curing your post harvest blues..
Ah yes. Harvest time has come. The buds are swollen, the trichomes are the exact color you have been waiting for. The smell is rich, and soon becomes almost overpowering as you tear into that first bud with shiny new scissors. Not too many of us really like big trim jobs, but we endure. We endure because we know that in a few short weeks we will be enjoying the fruits of our beloved labor.

Of course, we all know that this is not the finish line. On the contrary, this is only the beginning of the race...



The Cure
Oh yes, the cure. Many times has this been judged the most important part of the growing experience, and with good standing reason. This is the point where all our patience and skill will shine through, or take a dive into the miserable oblivian of smoking mere mediocre herb. Botch things here and it will all be for not. Though a perfect cure can help cover up some small discrepancies during your grow, having the best growing conditions on earth will not earn you a free pass through this hallowed gate my friend.

So, how's your cure? Perfect? Consistantly perfect? Are you a Cure Master? Hmm.. Prove it. What?

Did you know that your cure can be broken down into a mathematical equation? What if I told you that you can attain the perfect cure, the best cure possible, every single harvest? And what if it was as easy as painting by numbers? And what if this could totally affect the way you cure, wether you are a newbie, or an old seasoned head?

Cannabis is an annual weed. It's purpose in life is singular and pure: Continued propagation. The female cannabis plant, through it's propagating qualities is naturally the ultimate focuse of this forum, along with many others just like it. In order for the female cannabis plant to fulfill her destiny, and to fill our jars, like all life on earth she needs water. Her flowering buds are full of it. It is the point of drying them to release this water. The cure, on the other hand, is a bit more complicated. In contrast, the cure is an attempt to delay this release of water over time. It is this juggling act that is in dire need of deciphering and it is this thread that will show exactly how it is done. It is said that the bud of a cannabis plant continues to live for a certain amount of time after it is cut from it's stem ( per Ed Rosenthal), in some cases a couple of days. I personally think this is crazy. This is akin to cutting off a chickens head. A lot of good it did the chicken.. Unless your bud has the ability to sprout instant roots and walk itself to an empty pot it is, for all intensive purposes, d, e, a, d, dead. This, by no means, insinuates that there are not living cells and processes to be found, but without the ability to replenish water, the drying has begun. Even though the bud has begun it's dry cycle, there is still plenty of water in it to allow various cells to continue to function. Since the main stem has been cut they have no choice but to pull water and nutrients (in the form of clorophyl and other complex carbohydrates) from stores in the bud and process them into simple carbohydrates (simple sugars) in order to continue to function normally. The more complex carbohydrates that are broken down and the more simple carbohydrates that are used and the more moisture that is lost, the better your buds will be. Within this process is the secret to the perfect cure..


First we will break it down into phases. This seems easiest as you can refer back to any point of the cure by phase. Try to think of it like landing an airplane...

Phase one: The dry. This is kind of like preparing to land. The first thing you want to do is come to altitude and lower your landing gear. Basically, once you cut your bud, you need to decide what to do with it. Most of us go ahead and trim it now. Once it is trimmed to our liking, the bud is hung to dry.

Phase two: The pre-cure. This is somewhat like landing your airplane. The trick is to set it down on the runway at just the right angle as you begin to reduce your speed. This is where the mathematics come into play. What you are looking for here is the "feel". When your hanging bud begins to "feel" like it is drying out, but the stems are still flexible, it is time to jar. Don't worry, we will revisit this phase in more detail in a bit..

Phase three: The cure. Now your airplane is on the runway. This is where you are focusing on your instruments and applying the brakes. This is the actual part of the cure. It is a benefit to keep your bud in this stage for as long as possible. Actually, this may be a little misleading as some folks may like some cures better than others. In other words, this is the point where smells and flavors can change drastically. Depending on what it is you are after will dictate exactly how long you keep this phase in check. But only you can decide what you like.

Phase four: Storage. Well, the flight is over, time to put the airplane away. We have finally reached a point where the curing process has greatly slowed down and it is safe to store your bud.

Hygrometer is needed.

Phase one. 70%+ RH: This starts out just like any other time you have done it. Once you have harvested your bud and trimmed it to your liking, hang it in a cool dark place. This is where we will part from tradition. Allow it to hang until the buds begin to feel like they are drying (note the temps and rh as this will rarely be the same during subsequent harvests). They will start to lose their "softness" in favor of a slightly crispy texture. We don't want to allow it to dry until the stems snap. THIS IS WRONG! We want the stems to be flexible. Not totally soft, but not snapping, either. If allowed to dry until the stems snap we risk it drying too much and losing an opportunity to take full advantage of the cure window. You see once the bud reaches the 55% RH range, the cure is dead. No amount of moisture added will revive this. If you are a brown bag dryer you can still use this technique, although I no longer do. I feel it is unneccessary at this point in the drying process. Just make sure you do not over dry. Also, this is a perfect time to calibrate your hygrometers with your new calibrating kit. This phase may take anywhere from 2 to 7 days depending on ambient temp, RH and strain, etc. It is important to be right on top of this phase. Sometimes we will notice thinner stemmed buds getting done quicker. It is ok to take these first and put them in the jar. Just screw the cap on very loosely until the bulk of the bud joins it.

Phase two. 70% to 65% RH: This is where the numbers game begins to kick in. Once you have reached the crispy bud/flexible stem stage, it is time to jar it up. Now there are a few options here.. Really you can jar it up just like always. Only, fill your jar 3/4 to 4/5 full so you have room to use your hygrometer. You can leave it on the stem, stem free, whatever. I personally prefer it in it's finished state, no stems. You can leave just a few stems intact for the sake of testing stem flexibility. Also, with more stems comes more moisture. This may fit well with your style, but it also may play havoc if mold is present. Once your bud is in the jar drop in the hygrometer and cap it. Keep an eye on your meter for the next hour or so. What we are shooting for in this phase is 70% RH maximum. If you hit 71% or greater, you will have to take the bud out to dry more. If this seems a little tricky here, it is. The cure, even though we are still in the dry phase, has been happening to a small degree since the moment the bud was cut. Basically now we are juggling time with mold prevention. We want to avoid any instance of mold, but we want to get every second of cure time in that we can. The goal in this phase is to start at a 70% maximum RH and, in a timely and mold free manner, bring the RH down to about 65%. The reason I say "about" is that if there is an issue with mold (i.e. the crop was exposed to heavy mold before and/or during harvest) we may chose to take the RH even lower, like 62%. This won't leave a huge window for curing, but it will keep the bud safe. Ideally, however, 65% will do. Generally you can tell pretty quickly if the bud is still too wet as the hygrometer % will climb pretty quickly (rate: 1% per hour or faster). You will also notice, at this point, that the bud will feel "wetter". That's ok. The reason for this is that while the exposed part of the bud began to dry quicker than the inside during phase one, the inside of the bud and stems retained a good deal of their moisture. Once in the jars (phase two) that moisture can no longer be efficiently evaperated off and moved to a different area, being replaced by dryer air. Once you have determined the RH, which may take up to 24 hours, you can begin burping the jars. This can be done at a rate of one to two hours once or twice a day, depending on initial RH reading. Your room RH, temp, strain, exposure to mold and hygro readings will dictate this for you and wether to go faster or slower. Slower is always better, but precipitating factors, as stated, may trump this.. Also, at the end of this stage is where most commercial bud will hit the open market, if you are lucky. The bud at this stage should have that super sticky icky velvety feel and the 'bag appeal' will be at it's very highest.



Phase three, 65% to 60% RH: Your buds are in the jar and RH is 65% or less. Perfect. The object of the game, as stated before, is to slowly release the moisture from the jar over time. Your buds are now in the cure zone. At this point we are looking for a much slower release than phase two and will shift to a short burp once a week. Your buds will deliver a nice smoke at around 60%, so the speed at which this is done (which translates directly to duration of burpage) is entirely up to you. It is at this stage that small stems should snap in two. It is also in this stage that you will meet true stability, or equalization, in RH. What that means is that the amount of moisture in the stems is no longer disproportionate to the buds, and moisture transfer or persperation (sweat) slows dramatically. This also means it will take much longer to get a true reading from your Hygrometer. A true reading at this point might take up to 36 hours, but that's ok.

So, do you know what your idea of a perfect smoking bud is? If you have followed the phases as you have read them, then this is the stage where you can find out. It may be as specific as a stationary RH value, or even a "window" between different values. Everyone one should know there ideal smoking range. I prefer mine on a slightly dryer cure, say between 55 to 57%.


Phase four, 60% to 55%+ RH: Even though a true cure is far from over, your buds are truly ready to smoke if you wish. They are also ready to face long term storage. As stated before, the cure dies at -55%. It is ok for the cure to be dead if you have reached your desired cure level as later remoisturing can easily bring that bud back into your prefered smoking range. But, you can also continue the cure for long time periods and the trick to this is to stay above the 55% level. Unfortunately even claimed 'air tight' jars will allow bud to continue losing moisture over time. The trick here is to guarantee air tightness. Simon has suggested that he jars in air tight jars and double vacuum bags it as a way to ensure cure integrity. I am less picky. It is a good idea, though not neccessary, to leave a hygro in the jar and check it from time to time. I would start with once a week for the first month then, if everything is stable, once every month after that should suffice.
 

Peace
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#16578 STONERHAVEN.com Staff MacGyver Bowl (bong making contest)

Posted by Liveforever on 17 June 2012 - 10:14 PM

entry #1
Attached File  growjones.jpg   64.22KB   40 downloads
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#16174 Dogs!

Posted by Rob. on 16 June 2012 - 03:38 PM

Attached File  lily.jpg   37.72KB   33 downloads

lil white pup spitting image of mom
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#134774 Meet Your Stoner Haven Staff

Posted by Liveforever on 04 April 2014 - 04:04 PM

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#120867 Build A Better Butter

Posted by fumble on 12 January 2014 - 02:40 PM

As promised, here is a new and improved Butter Tutorial. I have been doing some reading and found a new, better butter recipe. Thanks to BadKittySmiles! She is awesome and knows her stuff! I have been doing it all wrong! lol...You shouldn't be using water to make your butter...

 

The water is not responsible for stripping the components you want: it only pulls excessive salt, chlorophyll and other inert properties into the mix, while at the same time hindering the oil and its ability  to break down your cannabis glandular material. Besides external contact interfering, the inert plant matter soaks up additional water via passive capilary action before it can absorb the oil, and overall prevents the oil from gaining as solid access and contact as it otherwise would have, ultimately preventing the oil that you're relying on, to perform the extraction, from doing the job or making the progress that it otherwise could. This leads to extended cooking requirements, including the 24-hour to several-day-long canna butter and oil recipes of the past, causing your cannabis to undergo unneeded degradation and excessive heat exposure.

 

So...here is the way to build a better butter:

 

Of course, as always, start by decarbing your weed. For this tutorial, I am using 1 oz of random bud - I don't know what it is, just found the jar in the cabinet. It is much easer to use bud rather than trim, as it doesn't soak up all the butter and makes for easier squeezing out later for a better return on what you started with. Remember that 1 oz bud = 4 oz trim. You can decarb right in the dish you will use to cook your butter. Grind your bud or break up to a fine consistency.  Spread over bottom of your dish and cover tightly with heavy duty (or double up on regular) foil. Put your dish in the oven and set temp to 225f. The time depends on how fresh your bud or trim is. Anywhere from 20 mins for older stuff and up to 35 for really fresh. Mine is pretty fresh so I did 30 minutes.

 

Attached File  DSCN3387.JPG   37.21KB   25 downloads  decarbed and ready to go  Attached File  DSCN3385.JPG   51.42KB   58 downloads

 

While your bud is decarbing, you will want to clarify your butter. This is something I have never done before, mainly because it is an extra step and I could never figure out how to really do it. My attempts on the stovetop never really worked. But, on accident I found out that it is easy peasy in the crockpot! I just put all the butter I will be using in the crockpot (I started out with 6 lbs of butter - or twelve cups, and lost 2 cups to milkfat/water content...so keep this in mind when clarifying...add in extra butter to make up for that loss) and set to high. Come back in half hour to an hour and this is what you have...

 

Attached File  DSCN3378.JPG   23.61KB   13 downloads and after the milkfat/water content has been removed  Attached File  DSCN3380.JPG   23.19KB   14 downloads  And this is what I separated for use in this tutorial  Attached File  DSCN3382.JPG   26.51KB   14 downloads   Attached File  DSCN3383.JPG   31.88KB   15 downloads

 

Now add your clarified butter to your decarbed weed...   Attached File  DSCN3389.JPG   29.7KB   52 downloads   Attached File  DSCN3385.JPG   51.42KB   58 downloads  then your lecithin. I did 1 big glug from the bottle for this, probably about a teaspoon or two. For this demo, I am using the liquid because I forgot to buy the granules, which should be used. but either will work...   Attached File  DSCN3391.JPG   39.2KB   19 downloads   Attached File  DSCN3392.JPG   32.98KB   18 downloads  

and cover tightly with your foil...   Attached File  DSCN3386.JPG   32.13KB   15 downloads   set oven to 215f  and timer for 1 hour...   Attached File  DSCN3396.JPG   38.01KB   13 downloads

 

When timer goes off, remove from oven and let cool to room temp, then put in freezer. You want to freeze for at least an hour, preferably several or overnight....

 

...in the meantime...  Attached File  DSCN3393.JPG   32.9KB   13 downloads Poke lots of Smot!!!

 

Now, after you have frozen your weed/butter, you will cook again. Remove from freezer and let come to room temp, so you don't shatter it in the oven...  Attached File  DSCN3397.JPG   40.28KB   28 downloads   You will want to process it for another hour, up to 3 or 4 hours depending on the result you are looking for. The longer you cook, the more sedative it becomes. I cook for 2 more hours.  this will be the result...   Attached File  DSCN3405.JPG   53.95KB   27 downloads 

 

Here you will want to let it cool enough to handle, but not enough to where it starts to solidify!  You will want to have several layers of cheesecloth ready and a jar or dish for final storage. It is best to squeeze out in small handfuls rather than in one large pile. You will get more butter back and not leave so much in the weed. Easy way... take your jar and put 4 layers of cheesecloth over the opening and secure with a rubber band. Lay another 4 layers of cheesecloth on top of that. Now spoon small amounts at a time into the center of the top cheesecloth. Gather up the corners and squeeze over the cheesecloth on the jar. Squeeze as much as you can out then remove the strainings and repeat the process until all done.

 

I just got my press, so no more hand squeezing for me...   Attached File  DSCN3406.JPG   28.07KB   16 downloads  

 

This is the final product...   Attached File  DSCN3411.JPG   22.95KB   20 downloads  ...having made both water butter recipes and this way, I can say, hands down that this is by far the best method. The butter comes out much nicer -especially if you clarify your butter! It has a beautiful green to it that the other way doesn't - the other way is more brown.

 

After you have finished your butter, you are ready to bake and get baked!   Attached File  DSCN3311.JPG   38.46KB   21 downloads   :chef-Attho:

Attached Files


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#215502 StonerHaven Seed Strains

Posted by roofwayne on 31 December 2015 - 09:14 PM

Zuluskunk= World of seeds Kwaszulu x unknown Cali skunk from 80's

ZS x Wild Thai= ZS x World of seeds Wild Thai

ZS x MW= ZS x Maui Wowie from Herbie seeds, don't remember seed co

African OG= ZS x Pikes Peak Diesel [ (Blue Dream x SFV og) x Deadhead OG]. PPD was a strain developed by Mg Canna a former member .......rw


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#196410 AFTER THE HARVEST

Posted by Liveforever on 04 March 2015 - 02:23 PM

(Not my writing, author unknown.)

 

AFTER THE HARVEST

Once the marijuana plant is harvested, it ceases to produce cannabinoids and resins, and the main changes in potency that occur are degradative. However, when the material is handled carefully, dried or cured properly, and then stored well, little degradation will occur. During drying or curing, the resin content may seem to increase, as the plant's tissues shrink away from their resinous coating.

 

More than 70 percent of the fresh weight of the plant os water. Drying is done to evaporate most of this water, so the marijuana will burn evenly and smoke smoothly. Additionally, the cannabinoids in fresh plant material are mostly in the acid forms, which are not psychoactive. The acid cannabinoids decarboxylate (they lose the gas, carbon dioxide) during the drying or curing processes, which convert them to their psychoactive neutral forms. Decarboxylation is complete if the marijuana is actually smokes. For this reason, no special procedures are needed to decarboxylate the marijuana unless it will be eaten. In that case, the recipe should include a period of dry heating. The heat converts the cannabinoids to their psychoactive neutral forms, and also melts the sharp-pointed cystolith hairs that cover leaves, stems and petioles. Cystolith hairs can cause stomach pains if you eat uncooked marijuana or chew on raw marijuana, which we strongly advise you not to do.

 

Commercial marijuana us usually composed of just the flower tops (colas), which have been stripped, manicured, cured, and dried. Homegrowers often do not cure their crop before drying, and if the smoke is smooth, there is no reason not to dry it directly. But harsh-smoking marijuana can be cured so that the smoke is smoother. Curing has little affect on potency when done properly.

 

Stripping

Stripping, the removal of large leaves, is usually done soon after harvesting. Fan leaves are stripped because they are much less potent than the colas that they cover, and do not cure as well as the prime material. In commercial growing areas, the fan leaves are often stripped in the field and form a green manure. But fan leaves are sometimes quite potent, especially if they are recent growth. The lower leaves are usually weak, but they can be used in cooking or concentrated in an extract.

 

The easiest time to strip fan leaves is after they have wilted, because they are easier to pull off when they are limp then when they are turgid. Wilting takes place in less than an hour if the plants are in a well-ventilated space. Plants placed in a plastic bag in a cool area may take a day or more to wilt.

 

Some growers leave the fan leaves on until the plants have dried. After the buds are removed, they strip the remaining leaves by running their (gloved) hands from the base of stems and branches toward their tips. The fan leaves disintegrate into shake.

 

Grading and Manicuring

Grading and manicuring are important steps in preparing fine grass. Grading is done by separating the plants according to variety, sex, and the particular stash uniform, and the quality of the better grades is not diluted. Plant parts are usually graded as follows: main top colas, small side colas, immature buds, leaves accompanying flowers, and fan and stray leaves. This is important, because the differences in potency will be considerable. For instance, the buds on a Colombian homegrown will be top quality, but the lower leaves will be more like a low-grade commercial Mexican.

 

Manicuring is done to remove the extraneous leaf from the colas. First the large fan leaves are stripped. The exposed colas are then trimmed with scissors to remove the ends of leaves that stick out from the colas. Plants should be manicured and (usually) graded before drying, since dried material crumbles into shake when handled. Also, leaves dry much more quickly than buds, and different plant parts cure at their own rates.

 

Male flowers are often treated as a novelty by growers, who make individually rolled sticks from them, as follows. Hang the plants upside down; the leaves will wilt and hang down, covering the male flower clusters. Then roll each cluster within its leaves between the palms of your hands, to compress the cluster into a joint-shaped mass. Dry the "stick" in a warm dark place. Rolling the grass ruptures many of the glands; so dried sticks should be stored carefully until each is used.

 

[hashish] When you handle your crop, you may notice a resin build-up on your hands and the tools you are using. This resin can be collected by rubbing and scraping it into a ball. It makes a quality hash that is several times as concentrated as the grass.

 

Small quantities of hash can be made by rubbing resinous plant parts across a thing, fine mesh screen. The resin is then scraped off the screen and rolled into finger shapes. Hash can also be made by thrashing fresh plants over a mesh screen inside an enclosed box whose floor is lined with sheet plastic. A box about one yard square is a suitable size. On one side of the box a hole is made large enough for the colas to be shaken by hand. In this way, the resin glands are knocked loose, but are contained by the box and settle on the plastic.

 

Plastic or paper should be placed beneath the marijuana during manicuring, grading, or drying. Besides fallen grass, a considerable amount of glands and fine shake can be caught and compressed to a hash-like mass.

 

Curing

Curing is a process employed to naturally enhance the bouquet, flavour, and texture of marijuana. Curing does not lower potency when done correctly, although poor curing methods often result in some less of THC.

 

Curing is not an essential procedure, and many growers prefer the "natural" flavour of uncured grass. Sweet sinsemilla buds usually are not cured.

 

Curing is most successful on plants which have "ripened" and are beginning to lose chlorophyll. It is less successful on growing tips and other vigorous parts which are immature. These parts may only lose some chlorophyll.

 

Curing proceeds while the leaf is still alive, for until it dries, many of the leaf's life processes continue. Since the leaf's ability to produce sugars is thwarted, it breaks down stored starch to simple sugars, which are used for food. This gives the grass a sweet or earthy aroma and taste. At the same time, many of the complex proteins and pigments, such as chlorophyll, are broken down in enzymatic processes. This changes the colour of the leaf from green to various shades of yellow, brown, tan, or red, depending primarily on the variety, but also on growing environment and cure technique. The destruction of chlorophyll eliminates the minty taste that is commonly associated with green homegrown.

 

There are several methods of curing, most of which were originally designed to cure large quantities of tobacco. Some of them can be modified by the home grower to use for small marijuana harvests as well as large harvests. The methods used to cure marijuana are the air, flue, sweat, sun, and water cures.

 

Air Curing

 

Air curing is a technique developed in the United States for curing pipe and cigar tobacco. It was originally done in specially constructed barns made with ventilator slats which could be sealed; a small shed or metal building can easily be adapted for this use. However, this method of curing works only when there is enough material to keep the air saturated with moisture.

 

Wires are strung across the barn, and the marijuana plants or plant parts are hung from them, using string, wire twists, or the crooks of branches. The plants material should be closely spaced, but there should be enough room between branches (a few inches) so that air circulates freely. The building is kept unventilated until all the material loses some chlorophyll (green colour). This loss occurs rapidly during warm sunny weather because heat builds up, which hastens the cure. In wet or overcast weather, the temperature in the chamber will be cooler, and the process will proceed more slowly. If these conditions last for more than a day or two, unwanted mould may grow on the plants. The best way to prevent mould from forming is to raise the temperature to 90F by using a heater.

 

After the leaves have lost their deep green and become pale, the ventilator or windows are opened slightly, so that the temperature and humidity are lowered and the curing process is slowed. The process then continues until all traces of chlorophyll are eliminated. The entire process may take six weeks. Then the ventilators are opened, and an exhaust fan installed if necessary, to dry the material to the point that it can be smoked but still is moist, that is, bends rather than crumbles or powders when rubbed between thumb and forefinger.

 

Flue Curing

 

Flue curing differs from air curing in that the process is speeded up by using an external source of heat, and the air circulation is more closely regulated. This method can be used with small quantities of material in a small, airtight curing box constructed for the purpose. Large quantities can be hung in a room or barn as described in Air Curing.

 

A simple way to control the temperature when curing or drying small amounts of marijuana is to place the material to be cured in a watertight box (or a bottle) with ventilation holes on the top. Place the box in a water-filled container, such as a pot, fish-tank, or bathtub. The curing box contains air and will float. The water surrounding the box is maintained at the correct temperature by means of a stove or hotplate, fish-tank or water-bed heater, or any inexpensive immersible heater. Temperature of the water is monitored.

 

With the marijuana loosely packed, maintain water temperature at 90 degrees. After several days, the green tissue turns a pale yellow-green or murky colour, indicating yellow or brown pigments. Then increase temperature, to about 100 degrees, until all traces of green disappear. Raise the temperature once again, this time to 115 degrees, until a full, ripe colour develops. Also increase ventilation at this time, so that the marijuana dries. Plants dried at high temperature tend to be brittle; so lower the temperature before drying is completed. This last phase of drying can be done at room temperature, out of the water bath. The whole process takes a week or less.

 

Marijuana cured by this technique turns a deep brown colour. Immature material may retain some chlorophyll and have a slight greenish cast. Taste is rich yet mild.

 

Sweat Curing

 

Sweat curing is the technique most widely used in Colombia. Long branches containing colas are layered in piles about 18 inches high and a minimum of two feet square, more often about ten by fifteen feet. Sweat curing actually incorporates the fermenting process. Within a few hours the leaves begin to heat up from the microbial action in the same way that a compost pile ferments. Then change in colour is very rapid; watch the pile carefully, so that it does not overheat and rot the colas. Each day unpack the piles, and remove the colas that have turned colour. Within four or five days, all the colas will have turned colour. They are then dried. One way to prevent rot while using this method is to place cotton sheets, rags, or paper towels between each double layer of colas. The towels absorb some of the moisture and slow down the process.

 

Sweat curing can be modified for use with as little marijuana as two large plants. Pack the marijuana tightly in a heavy paper sack (or several layers of paper bags), and place it in the sun. The light is converted to heat and helps support the sweat.

 

Another variation of the sweat process occurs when fresh undried marijuana is bricked. The bricks are placed in piles, and they cure while being transported.

 

A simple procedure for a slow sweat cure is to roll fresh marijuana in plastic bags. Each week, open the bag for about an hour to evaporate some water. In about six weeks, the ammonia smell will dissipate somewhat, and the grass should be dried. This cure works well with small quantities of mediocre grass, since it concentrates the material.

 

Sun Curing

 

A quick way to cure small quantities of marijuana os to loosely fill a plastic bag or glass jar, or place a layer between glass or plastic sheets, and expose the material to the sun. Within a few hours the sun begins to bleach it. Turn the marijuana every few hours, so that all parts are exposed to the sun. An even cure is achieved in one to two days {(see Plate 16)}. Some degradation of THC may occur using this method.

 

Water Cure

 

Unlike other curing methods, the water cure is performed after the marijuana is dried. Powder and small pieces are most often used, but the cure also works with whole colas. The material is piled loosely in a glass or ceramic pot which is filled with luke-warm water. (When hot water is used, some of the THC is released in oils, which escape and float to the top of the water.) Within a few hours many of the non-psychoactive water-soluble substances dissolve. An occasional gentle stirring speeds the process. The water is changed and the process repeated. Then the grass is dried again for smoking.

 

THC is not water-soluble; so it remains on the plant when it is soaked. By eliminating water-soluble substances (pigments, proteins, sugars, and some resins), which may make up 25 percent of the plant material by weight, this cure may increase the concentration of THC by up to a third.

 

Marijuana cured by this method has a dark, almost black colour, and looks twisted and curled, something like tea leaves. The water cure is frequently used to cure dried fan leaves and poor-quality grass.

 

Drying

Living marijuana leaves are 80 percent water; colas are about 70 percent water. Marijuana dried for smoking contains only eight to 10 percent water, or about 10 percent of the original amount. There are several methods used to evaporate water; these have little effect on potency, but can affect the taste, bouquet, and smoothness of the smoke. Generally, the slower the dry, the smoother the taste. Excess drying and drying methods that use heat will evaporate some of the volatile oils that give each grass its unique taste and aroma.

 

Grasses which are dried as part of the curing process usually have a smooth, mild taste, because of the elimination of chlorophyll and various proteins. Cured marijuana may also be a little sweeter than when first picked, because the curing converts some of the plant's starch to simple sugars.

 

Some grasses are tasty and smooth-smoking when they are dried without curing, especially fresh homegrown buds which retain their volatile oils and sugar. Many homegrowers have acquired a taste for "natural" uncured grass, with its minty chlorophyll flavour; such marijuana is dried directly after harvesting. {Figure 89, Male plants drying on a tree. Cheesecloth holds loose leaf for drying.}

 

Slow Drying

 

Slow drying is probably the method most commonly used to dry marijuana. Because of the slowness of the dry, a slight cure takes place, eliminating the bite sometimes associated with quickly dried grass.

 

There are many variations of the technique, but most commonly whole plants or separated colas are suspended upside down from a drawn string or from pegs on a wall in a cool dark room, closet, or other enclosed space. A large number of plants may take a week or two to dry. The drying time for small numbers of plants can be increased (for a slight cure) by placing the plants in large, open paper sacks that have ventilation holes cut in their sides. The drying room should have no heavy drafts, but mould may form on the plants if the air is stagnant. If weather is rainy or the air humid, increase ventilation and watch for any mould. Plants should be dried quickly under moderate heat if any mould appears.

 

Many experienced growers prefer slow drying to curing. There is little chance of error with this method, and buds usually smoke smooth and develop a pliable consistency. Slow-dried ripe buds retain their delicious, sweet aroma and taste.

 

Fast Drying

 

The fast dry-method produces a harsher smoke than slow drying, but it is often the most convenient method to use. The plants are suspended in the same way as for slow drying, but the temperature in the drying area is increased to between 90 and 115 degrees, often by means of electric or gas heater. The drying area is kept well-ventilated with a fan. As the plants dry, they are removed from the drying area. By this method, plants in a tightly packed room can be dried in less than four days, but the exhaust will contain the deliciously pungent odour of drying marijuana.

 

Indoor growers often hang plants to dry over radiators or stream pipes. Leaves are dried by placing them on a tray over a radiator or on top of the light fixture.

 

Marijuana that is fast-dried retains its original green colour and minty taste.

 

Oven Drying

 

Oven drying is often used by gardeners to sample their crop. Small quantities of material can be quickly dried by being placed in a 150 to 200 oven for about 10 minutes. Larger quantities can be dried in trays that contain a single layer of material or in a dehydrator. Oven-dried and dehydrator-dried marijuana usually has a harsh taste and bite, and loses much of its bouquet. The method is often used to dry marijuana which has been cured and dried but is too moist to smoke, or to dry marijuana which is to be used for cooking or extractions. It is an adequate method for obtaining dry material for testing and emergencies, but the main harvest should not be dried in this way.

Oven drying works best with leaves. When leaves are dried together with buds or shoots, remove the material from the oven periodically, to separate the faster-drying leaf material (before it burns) from the slower drying buds. One way to do this is to place all the material on a wire screen over a tray. Every few minutes rub the material across the screen. Dried material falls unto the tray and is removed from the oven. Repeat until all the material has dried.

 

Oven curing works well when closely watched. Dried marijuana that is left in the oven will lose potency quickly. Any time the marijuana begins to char, most of the potency will already have been lost. This should not be a problem unless you are careless, or allow the temperature to go above 200 degrees.

 

Sun Drying

 

Some growers dry their crops right in the field. There are many methods of sun drying. In Oregon, some growers break the main stem about two feet from the ground. The leaves and buds dry gradually, since they are still partly attached to the plant. Other growers spread burlap and cover it with plants left to dry. Fan leaves are left on the plants to protect the drying buds from the sun. The grass is manicured after drying. Growers in Arizona shade drying plants with cheesecloth.

 

Sun-dried marijuana usually has a taste similar to that of oven-dried. Often the sun bleaches it slightly but also destroy some of the delicate bouquet. Prolonged exposure to the sun will decrease potency, although there is no noticeable loss if drying is done quickly.

 

Dry Ice

 

Many homegrowers have written to us that the dry-ice cure increases the potency of marijuana considerably, and we would be remiss not to mention it.

 

Dry ice is frozen carbon dioxide. When it melts (sublimates), it turns from a solid directly into a gas. This gas absorbs some moisture from the frozen marijuana and partially dries it.

 

There are many variations of the dry-ice method. Fresh or partially dried material is usually used, although some enthusiasts claim that the cure also works with dried material. The marijuana is placed in a coffee can or similar container with a lid, along with at least an equal volume of dry ice. Puncture the lid so that the gas can escape as it evaporates. Place the can in a freezer to prolong the evaporation process. When the dry ice is gone, the grass is dried, but still moist.

 

Some growers claim that simply freezing the grass increases potency. They often freeze fan leaves or other less-potent material for a couple of months before smoking it. This is said to work only with fresh (wet or dried) grass.

 

Fermentation

When vegetation dries, the individual cells which maintained life processes die. But marijuana can still be conditioned by means of fermentation. Fermentation is the process in which microbes and plant enzymes break down complex chemicals into simpler ones, mainly starch and sugars into alcohol and simple acids. In the process chlorophyll is destroyed, giving the material a more ripened appearance. If the fermentation is stopped early, the marijuana has a sweeter taste because of the sugars which the ferment produced.

 

Fermentation occurs when the moisture content of the marijuana is raised above 15 percent and the temperature is above 60 degrees. The more tightly packed the material, that faster the ferment proceeds. The rate of ferment is controlled primarily by varying the moisture content, but each batch proceeds at its own rate because of differences between plants in nitrogen content. (Nitrogen is necessary to maintain fermenting bacteria.) The process is delicate; should the ferment proceed too rapidly, the marijuana may be converted to compost. Watch the fermentation closely. After the desired colour or flavour (from a dried sample) is reached, dry the grass quickly to stop the process.

 

During fermentation, flavourings can be added to give the marijuana a spicy aroma. Such spices as cinnamon, cloves, ginger, mace, sage, or vanilla are placed between the fermenting material. Orange, lemon, or lime peels are also used. About half an ounce of spice or four ounces of peel are used for each cubic foot of material to be fermented. The spices are wrapped in cloth sachets. The citrus peels are strung. They can be placed between the layers of marijuana.

 

There are two types of fermentations: self-generating and forced. They are best used with leaves or immature plants.

 

Self-Generating Fermentation

 

Self-generating fermentation proceeds rapidly only when there is enough material to make a heap at least one cubic yard large. When smaller quantities are used, too much of the heat generated by the bacteria is dissipated, so that the process is slow and is more properly considered aging.

 

Place the material in a large container or in a pile with a tarpaulin placed over it, and lightly spray it with a mister if it is dry. Let the pile heat up for a few days, and then break it down. If it is repacked, the marijuana will develop a dull matte appearance and lose its sugars. IF the process is allowed to proceed even further, the marijuana will disintegrate.

 

Forced Fermentation

 

Forced fermentation can be used with small quantities of material. It requires an enclose chamber in which heat and humidity can be regulated.

 

Pack the marijuana loosely in a kiln or other chamber, and raise the temperature to 135 degrees. Maintain humidity at 75 percent. Check the progress of the ferment periodically. Within a week the ferment should be completed. During this ferment there is a release of ammonia compounds, resulting in some foul odours, but upon completion of the ferment and drying, the marijuana should smoke sweet and mellow.

 

Storage

Table is degraded by both heat and light. Table 26 shows results of an experiment conducted at the University of Mississippi, in which marijuana was stored under varying temperature conditions171. These results indicate that marijuana stored at room temperature (72) or below, and in darkness for up to two years will lose only an insignificant amount of its original potency; whereas marijuana stored in darkness at 97 or above will lose almost all its potency within two years.

 

In another experiment,164 Fairbairn stored dried marijuana at different temperatures in both light and dark conditions. The samples in light were exposed to a north-facing windows (no direct sunlight). The results are shown in Table 27.

 

Fairbairn also performed an experiment to discover the effect of air on THC164. Freshly prepared Cannabis resin was stored as a loose powder, a compressed powder, and an unbroken lump for one year at 68 degrees F (about room temperature). Samples were stored under two conditions: in light and air, and in darkness and air. The results are shown in Table 28.

 

Fairbairn experimented further with pure cannabinoids and extracts of marijuana dissolved in petroleum ether, chloroform, and ethanol (alcohol)165. The results, in Tables 29 and 30, show that the THC and CBD in solution are much more unstable than when they are left in marijuana, especially if they are held by the plant in undamaged glands, where they are protected from exposure to air and, to some degree, light. Crude extracts seem more stable than highly refined cannabinoids, especially CBD, which is very unstable in refined solutions.

 

Extract makers and purchasers should limit the exposure of the solution to light and heat as well as to air. Oils and extracts should be kept refrigerated in opaque, sealed container. Notice that THC is almost completely degraded in a few weeks when it is held in solution and exposed to light. Red oil, hash oil, and honey oil must be stored in light-tight containers to preserve potency.

 

From the tables, you can see that light is the primary factor that causes decomposition of THC. The decomposition products are unknown, but are suspected to be polymers or resins. We also do not know whether the rate of decomposition would be faster in direct sunlight.

 

Air (oxygen) acts much more slowly to convert THC to CBN. Decomposition of THC to CBN is not significant unless temperatures are in the nineties or higher. However, such high temperatures can occur in grass that is packed before it is properly dried. The moisture that is left supports microbial activity, which heats the grass internally, as occurs during certain types of curing. Potency of cured grass is not lowered significantly when the cure is done properly and when the buds are left intact during the process.

 

The figures for powdered and compressed grass in Table 28 show that both light and air cause rapid decomposition when the resin is exposed through breaking of the resin glands. Intact resin glands appear to function well in storing the cannabinoids. For this reason, it is important to handle fresh and dried grass carefully, in order not to crush the material and thus break the glands, especially in the buds, which have a cover of raised resin glands. Most well-prepared marijuana will have intact, well-preserved buds.

 

The best place to store marijuana is in a dark container in a refrigerator or freezer. Cannabis should be stored uncleaned, so that the glands containing the THC are not damaged, since damage causes their precious contents to be exposed to light and air. Marijuana should be cleaned only when it is about to be smoked.

 

Many growers place a fresh lemon, orange, or lime peel in with each lid of stored grass. The peel helps to retain moisture, which keeps the buds pliable, and also gives the grass a pleasant bouquet.


  • PureGro1, roofwayne, Marki and 14 others like this


#186959 Random Think

Posted by BarnBuster on 05 December 2014 - 08:26 AM

Santa-Scrabble.jpg


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#186385 Stoner Haven Christmas 2014

Posted by PureGro1 on 30 November 2014 - 10:12 PM

Merry Christmas Stoner's

Hope you all enjoy- just a little Remix of a StonerHaven Classic...

 

'Twas the night before Christmas, when all through Stoner Haven

Not a Stoner was stirring, not even DarKwon ;

 

The Bongs were Sitting by the chimney with care,

In hopes that St. Stoner himself soon would be there;

 

The stoners were nestled with empty weed bags in their beds,

While visions of Sativa & Indica danced in their heads;

 

And roofwayne With his Joint, and I in with a little weed,

Had just smoked out because were cool Indeed.

 

When out in the garden there arose such a clatter,

I sprang from my bean bag to see WTF was the matter.

 

Away to the window I stumbled like a stoner,

Tore down the mylar and knocked over a pot.

 

The smoke from the Bowl and Joint Blinding my vision,

Gave a hazey hue.

 

When what gave my red eyes Tired a Lift,

But a miniature sleigh Shaped like a spliff.

 

Not to mention A crap load of tiny Stoners,

With a Stoned Brother driver so High,

I knew in a moment he must be St. Stoner .

 

More rapid than fat beagles his Admin, and Staff they came,

And he Smoked, and Toked, and called them by name:

 

"Now, Liveforever ! Now, SirNovak ! Now attho and joe mac!

On, mellokitty ! on, Mojo ! on, fenderburn84 and Chris628 too,

On, Llama ! on, minnesmoker and MellowFarmer!

To the top of the plants! to the top of the bong!

Now smoke away! toke away! Stone away all!"

 

As leaves that lay before the oscillating fan fly,

When they meet with an obstacle, mount to the sky;

So up to the top of Stoner Haven the stoners they flew

With the spliff full of Blueberry, and St. Stoner too.

 

Then, a gurgling, I heard on the roof

The smoking and toking of each little bong.

As I drew in my hit, and was turning around,

Down the chimney St. Stoner came with a Pound.

 

He was dressed all in rasta colors, from his head to his foot,

And his clothes were all tarnished with resin, hash And a little soot.

 

A bundle of Weed he had flung on his back,

And he looked like a Grower just opening his pack.

 

His eyes—I could barely see! his roach clip, how merry!

His cheeks were like aurora indica, his nose like cherry Berry!

His mouth was drawn up like a bow as he was holding a huge blunt of white widow.

And the beard on his chin was as white as the crystals on his bud;

The stump of a pipe he held tight in his teeth,

And the smoke, it encircled his head like a wreath;

He had a nice pipe and a little round container of full melt

That smoked so good, I can’t explain how I felt.

 

 He was high as could be, and Carried a Bell,

And I laughed when I saw him, because well, I was high as hell.

A Look to his sack and a smell of his weed

Soon gave me to know He was St. Stoner indeed!

 

He sang a cool song, and went straight to his work,

And filled all the Vapes; Bowls and the bongs He was no jerk,

And smelling his spliff with his nose,

He gave it a Light, and up the chimney he rose;

 

He sprang to his sleigh, to his team he gave a Smoke,

And away they all flew…well….

 

 

 

 

 

 

Like a stoned bunch of tiny stoners. (What did you expect?!?!)

But I heard him exclaim, as he Smoked the last of his Kush—

 

“Merry Christmas to all Of Stoner Haven, and to all some good vibes!”

 

Attached File  O'Cannabis Tree.png   170.75KB   2 downloads

  • roofwayne, SirNovak, Liveforever and 14 others like this


#172830 Super Silos are the Future

Posted by Ttystikk on 24 August 2014 - 06:06 PM

ARGH! THIS WEBSITE ATE MY FIRST DRAFT! Okay, I'm better now, even if this isn't quite as smooth:

This isn't the typical grow thread, because what I'm doing isn't the typical 'let's grow some weeds!' kind of thing.

When I returned to indoor growing a few years ago, I was appalled at how inefficiency was allowed to run rampant in the name of more output. I had always considered myself a careful an conscious grower and I couldn't stand how bad these rooms had gotten. So I built one, LOL

Seriously, I built a double barreled Ocho filled ScrOG room that represents the current state of the art in indoor growing- but I built it for the express purpose of beating the old system with something better... ANYTHING. WHY?!

Why would I bother? Why not just blast out the product like everyone else, make a few bucks and whatever? I know that the price of product in Colorado has fallen by half in the past few years, and it will halve again within the next few.

Yet the indoor growing industry has taken a 'more is better' approach and expanded the already inefficient methods to truly monstrous proportions- with predictable results in terms of pot of control grow room temperatures, outlandish power bills and more.

I have found a way to produce cannabis commercially- this isn't really meant for the home hobbyist- that reduces costs by a factor of three to five, depending on how you count. One third (or less) of the power, one third the space and one third of the manpower... not including trimmers, lol

Why aren't more people looking for ways to reduce the costs of growing indoors? Because it's easy enough to just throw more, More, MORE at it and still make money.

As more states go medical or outright legal, the price of pot will plummet- and growers at home and in warehouses alike will have to find ways to reduce costs out perish.

This is the tech that will give them a leg up on their competition, and I'm even now racing to get patents and trademarks on gear because I want to be the guy who sells them the stuff to use less burning coal to produce more cheap weed for those who need it.

On with the show;
  • roofwayne, Llama, Liveforever and 14 others like this