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Beginners guide- how to: the ins and outs of bubble hash

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 Making High Quality Bubble Hash

The Process


What is going on here is you will be breaking off these oily glands and separating them in water. It's like the saying, oil and water don't mix.

The Material

Some say frozen, others say dry... what to choose??? I'm gonna tell ya whats up... dry trim seems to crumble easier and therefor is not as good as straight from the trim job to the freezer, frozen fresh trim. dry trim can be used just fine as long as you understand that when the dry material crumbles, not only are the trichomes gong to be able to fit threw the screen... but the material that is crumbling, will be small enough to squeeze threw the screens as well. this results in a lot more contaminates in the final product. freshly frozen trim usually locks the chlorophyll in the leaves better and results in a more pure product. I believe this is due to the material still containing some moisture, breaking off the hash material while the leaves are still flexible.

Separate your material!!! if you have fan leaves & you have trim... don't run both of them together. run your sugar leaf trim, then run you fan leaves. mixing the two will result in a lower quality hash... still potent, but not as high quality as it will be when the material is separated.

BaD MeTh0dS?!? 

Using three buckets, one to beat it in without a screen, pouring the slurry into another bucket to strain the 220µ screen, and third bucket with the rest of the screens arranged as normal.

Another 3 Bucket Method,Beating in 1 bucket without a bag and pouring into a second bucket containing the work bag. allowing to settle, then the work bag was removed and the bubble water got poured into a third bucket with the screens lined up from 25µ - 190µ as usual.

Pouring the bubble water back and forth between two buckets. The bucket being poured into contained 1 screen and was swapped out for the next size down in between pourings. -Thoughts anyone??? Seems like a waste of time to me when you could just use one bucket with all the screens.

Grinding your material into a screen door that is suspended above a 20 gallon bucket is not a good idea. Grinding your material will result in a lower grade hash due to the plant material that will mix in with your final product.

Not mixing long enough, 5 minutes is pretty weak, especially if your using the drill. If you are using the drill you are not after top quality hashish. The grade will be very high, but the secret to making top quality hash is to use very light and gentle agitation. Since using the drill method, plant matter gets ground into fine partials which are small enough to drain threw the screen. Since we are dealing with micron sized glands, it is hard to detect these plant partials with the naked eye. when gentle agitation is used the heads are frozen, broken off, and separated in the screens with minimal plant material in the final product.

Overpowered mixing tools, 2800 rpm Makita power drill. The tool was great and lasted all day long, the problem is the speed it was operated at made every batch come out green as cow shit.

Not Enough Water, not using enough water seems to make the mixture hard to stir. During the setting stage, the trim seems to create a thick patty along the top of the bucket and does not allow all the trichomes to settle threw the screens. Water is the solvent here and it's free, so don't be afraid to get the water level up the 2" from the top of the bucket. Any higher than that starts to leave a mess on the floor. 

Not Enough Ice will be problematic. When The resin glands are cold they are easy to work with. when they are warm they become sticky and are hell to work with. the water temperature should be around 32-36 degrees Fahrenheit. The ice helps break off the resin glands as well as helps in the separation that occurs during the settling period. make sure there is enough to last threw a 2 hour period. if there sounds like there isn't enough ice, add more at any point between the mixing and the settling period... not during the screening.

Using these methods is going to yield some hash yes, but they are less efficient.

Too Much Material - too much material will result in a lot of the trichomes being sandwiched between the thick layers of pot in the work bag. this will result in less yield due to all the trichomes not being able to reach the screens on the bottom of the bags. 

The Right Way(s)!!!

There are two right ways to make bubble IMO. The first way is the original method, one bucket method starting the batch with the product in the work bag. The second way is just a slight alteration of the original method but saves the work bag from getting beat up so much and prolongs the life of the work bag.

first get two buckets according to the size bag system you have (1,5, or 20 Gallon, also see below for using 7 gallon containers). place your bags in Bucket #1 starting with 25, then 45µ, 73µ, 90µ, 120µ, 160µ, 190µ, and last the work bag or the 220µ. 

i don't think i need to explain why we use that order but i will anyways. in order for the separation of green matter & trichomes, you need to use your tools (the screens). the largest screen holes also known as the 220, holds all the weed inside the bag while only particles below 220 microns remain in the water. since there is a set of screens separating the bottom of the bucket, trichome free water & the water that the weed was agitated in... the screens hold the remaining particles. the screens must have large enough holes to only collects the size trichomes that are bigger than the screen, yet smaller than the last. so when you are pulling the 120 bag, you are actually getting matter that is 159 microns - 120. then you pull the 90 micron bag, you are actually collecting particles 119-90 microns in size etc..

Next, add 2-3 inches of ice, 3 & 1/2 gallons of water to the empty bucket (Bucket #2 A.K.A. The Work Bucket). Then add the trash that you want to turn into stash, into bucket #2. Add some cubed ice on top of the material to make a nice 2-3 inch layer on top of your material. Use your mixing tool to press the ice underwater and give it a quick stir before you start beating the material for 10-20 minutes. you want the material to be well saturated in a mixture of water & ice. Make sure there is enough ice to last until you're finished beating and that that there will be enough to last through the settling period. If you have to... add more while mixing.

Never use more than 250 Grams or 1 gallon of material in a five gallon bucket. The mixture becomes too thick and doesn't allow the trichomes to sink to the bottom during the settling stage and seriously reduces yield. THE KEY IS TOO USE MORE WATER THAN WEED!!! THIS EXPOSES MORE SURFACE AREA TO THE WATER & AGITATION.

1 option...

NOTE: Gentle agitation is the trick to getting the highest quality product. 
 

Use a spoon to agitate extremely light/gentle. i've tried it & support it 100%, it's a great idea.

image.jpeg

Another option is gently with low speed, agitate the material for 8-20 minutes with a mud slinger attachment that you can get @ hardware stores everywhere. In the event you have to ask someone @ the store... this attachment is used for mixing paint. 8 minutes is going to bring higher quality & lower contaminates than 20 minutes.

 


image.png


option three is a hand mixer from the kitchen. same as the drill, 8-20 minutes on low speed. less agitation time is going to bring higher quality & less contaminates. when there is more agitation time, some of the green matter gets broken up & can then fit threw the bags very small micron screen..

If you're a cash cropper than you could mix it as hard as you can and not care about the green in the final product. If you are a connoisseur of cannabis like me and only after the highest quality product, then you want to agitate gently so you don't beat the crispy green leaves or chlorophyll into your fine hashish product. You only want the resin glands to fall into the screen, not the ground up material. You will get some ground up material in the 190µ-120µ screen even when done properly this is totally normal and these are known as the contaminate layers. Other grades are more sandy or golden colored as you work your way threw the 90µ-25µ bags.

Buckets
i have been using 7 gallon buckets lately

the 7 gallon containers allow more water than the 5 gallon does (obviously), but i don't increase the amount of material i use. 250 grams for the 5 gallon kit & i stick with 250 grams when using the 7 gallon containers as well. i just fold them over the lid just like a 5 gallon bucket & pour what water gently.

when you have beaten the material for 10-20 minutes, pour all the contents of the work bucket into bucket #1 with all the filtration screens. Now allow to settle for 30 minutes. During the settling period, I like to give the mixture a stir or two, every 10 minutes for a total of 3 stirrings during the settling period. Only stir the material around lightly once or twice, the point of this is to make sure that all the matter has a chance to allow the trichomes to sink and fall into the screens, not to beat the matter again... we already did that. try to be nice with it if you are going to stir because you don't really want to stir up the trichomes, just move the weed around.

When 30 minutes is up, lightly jiggle the bag up & down to get the water out of the bag. When the bag drains, clean the bag in the sink, do what you want with the material in it, and continue. 

you could save it aside in another bucket and rerun the material again for a second wash but i wouldn't try it anymore than twice.

Next jiggle your 190 bag up and out of the water. When the water is threw the screen, use the bubble water to rinse down the screen to pool all the hash product into the middle of the screen for easy collection. Now flip the bag inside out and stretch the screen over a bowl and scrape the hash off the screen and place on the drying screen with a hand towel under it. Clean your screen in the bubble water while inside out so the hash is rinsed into the next screen. Rinse the spoon in the bubble water and continue to the next bag.

Repeat this step with the 160µ, 120µ, 90µ, 73µ, 45µ, & 25µ screens. When you get down to the 25µ screen there is no where to rinse the spoon so you have to just work the hash off the spoon with your fingers.

If you are buying your bags separately, I would recommend buying the 120 & the 25 bags minimum. If you can afford additional bags, the 73  & 90 would be the ones to get. The 90 & 73 screens separate the highest grades of hash. they collect the big fat trichome heads while dropping all the smaller resin heads, broken trichome heads, & trichome stems. The smallest screen (25Micron) is what collects these. It removes anything left in the water that is of smoke able value, that's why it is a minimum requirement in a 2 bag system.

Now take the "pressing screen"( more on "the pressing screen" in a minute) and fold the unused half on top of the hash. Fold the hand towel over the screen and lightly dab the towel to extract most of the water in the hash cookies. The point of this step is to dab the water out, not to press the hash.

the pressing screen is a bad name for this product. it should have been called the dabbing screen because you aren't suppose to press the hash on this screen. many people confuse this because of the name. it is intended to dab water out with very minimal pressure to extract water from the cookies. the hash is going to be chopped next so pressing it would be a pointless act. just a heads up, it's not actually a pressing screen.

Now You have hash cookies that need to dry for a few days. cardboard is a perfect material for extracting water. simply peal the moist hash off the screen & place it on the cardboard.

The 190, 160, & 120 are the worst grades hash and some people even throw them away. you can cook with them as another alternative. 

NOTE: Make sure the cookies are cracker dry or chances are they are gonna mold up on ya. Also the cookies shouldn't actually be cookies at all. they should be chopped up with a razor blade or knife on the cardboard. make sure it's a fine powder to assure it dries properly. I didn't break them up for some of these batches because i didn't know it needed to be chopped when made them, but I would highly recommend it now that i know.

image.jpeg


Grading Hash:
The grades of hashish are as follows: 00 (Zero Zero), 0, 1,2,3. Zero Zero is by far the purest form of hashish and comes from plants that have high levels of THC in conjunction with a good hash-making technique. Sometimes the technique may be good but the levels of THC in the plant are low. This may produce a hash grade of two or three.

The quality of the resin glands will determine the quality of the hash that you will smoke. This is calculated based on the simple ratio of cannabinoids to vegetable material. In Morocco, 00 is used to describe hash that has the highest level of cannabinoids to vegetable material achieved by the extraction process. You can well imagine that this is the finest resin available compressed into hashish. 

The 190µ, 160µ, & 120µ are 3 grade hash. Very green, doesn't stick together very well, and powdery. The 90µ & 73µ screen hash is graded closer to 00 & 0. These resins suppose to be the best and usually are. This grade sticks together very well, doesn't feel very oily, and is usually a blonde or sandy color. The 45µ screen usually contains broken heads and stalks from the trichomes. This screen is usually graded at 0 or 1. The product feels slightly oily and sticks together very well, and is usually sandy, blonde, or white in color. The 25µ screen is very oily and is usually yellow or white in color and graded at 1-2. 

Like said in the above quote... The purest form of hashish comes from plants that have high levels of THC in conjunction with a good hash-making technique. What should be a good batch of bubble can go wrong if mixed with a bad technique, so mix gently if you after connoisseur quality hashish. 

Good luck... I hope this was informative.

 

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Cool stuff, great post I learned a lot. You will excel at mycoloigy. Very technical. 

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    • By PureGro1
      What is hydroponics?
       
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      Why grow hydroponically at all?
       
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      reservoir to hold nutrients  a pump to circulate the nutrient growing trays and pots for the plants to be held in.  

       
      You can build your own system, and many growers do, using miscellaneous equipment from a hydro shop and the local hardware store. Or you can choose to purchase a pre-buit system. Hydroponic systems can range in price and sophistication from under a $100 to several thousand. It all depends on the scale at which you intend to grow and the environment you need to produce for your plants.
       

       
       
       
       
      Growing Medium:
       
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      See Below  to learn more about choosing a grow medium. 
       
       

       
       
      Light:
       
      Light is not an issue for outdoor plants, but in order for sun-loving plants to thrive indoors, artificial light of the correct spectrum and intensity must be supplied. This is accomplished with High Intensity Discharge (HID) Lights. There are two types of HID lights, Metal Halides (MH) and High Pressure Sodium (HPS), and they both cover a different part of the light spectrum. MH lights reproduce the blue end of the spectrum and are used for young plants in the vegetative state HPS lights are used for plants During Flowering
      See Below for more information about horticultural lighting and how to choose the best light for your needs.
       
       

       
       
       
       
       
      Nutrients:
       
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      See Below for more info on Carbon dioxide and Below that to learn more about ventilation.
       

       
       
       
       
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    • Guest Budist
      By Guest Budist
      Bubble Hash:



      A Walk-through with Budist



      I was making Bubble hash today and decided to do a walk through!


       
      So this is what you will need:
      Bubble bags! <-- link to the real deal! High Quality! No I do not work for them lol.
       
      2 5gal buckets 1 of them with drain holes in the bottom.

       
      1 large tote
      20lb bag of ice

       
      Drill and paint mixer.

       
      Towel, drying screens and spoon.

       
      Some DANK trim! DRY AND FROZEN! I used 237 grams DRY sugar leaf.

       
      Take your 220 micron Bubble Bag.

       
      Place it inside of the 5 gal bucket that does not have the drain holes! Fill it between a 1/4 and 1/2 full of water.

       
      Take your trim and put it on top of the water.
       

       
      Then add ice.


       
      Use the drill and mixer to mix for 20 min. Work it good!!!
       

       
      When done mixing, pull out your 220 bag.

       
      Start draining it into the bucket making sure you squeeze well and get the water out!


       
      You need this waiting for you! the rest of your bags in order in the bucket that has the drain holes.



       
      Put the bucket in the clean tote and pour the hash water into the bags.

       

       
      Start draining the 160 bag.

       
      You will need to jiggle, squeeze, and beat the bag to get it to drain and will need to do that for every bag.

       
      When it has drained jiggle it around and it will collect itself.

       
      Scoop it with your spoon.

       
      Place it on your yellow drying screen, fold it over and press it out.

       
      Pull out the 73 micron yellow bag and drain the water.

       
      Spoon out the hash and press it out on the yellow screen.

       
      Now to drain your 25 micron bag.

       
      Sometimes when I can't get to the hash I will flip the bag inside out.

       
      Press that hash out on your orange screen.
       
      Do this 3 times! If you do not you will be losing out!!! I am warning you!!!
       
      Take the bucket out of the tote and drain the water back into the bucket with no holes and the 220 bag.

       
      I will do this 3 times in a row then let the 220 bag sit in the bucket so the ice can melt.
      When the ice has all melted do one last run but only mix it for 5 min and you will get every last couple grams.
       
      This is my end result! I will let you know the weight of hash I got out of my 237 grams of sugar leaf later in the thread.
       

       
      Thank you all for your time! Why don't you come smoke a joint with Budist!
    • By richie
      I attempted to make bubble from the trim off Blue Mistic on Monday, the first one.
      With the urgency of a newbie I wanted as much hash as I could get from my trimmings and therefore put as
      much trim as possible into the " to keep pile", this unfortunately in my inexperience put too much of the wrong
      leaf in there. It was too much of the fan leaves without trichs on and should of trimmed all without trichs on. A lot did have.
      I set everything up and started using the mixer, whizzing away with the ice. The resulting stew was like a green milkshake.
      The biggest 2 bags I had a little piece of hash, not much and the other 2 bags refused to drain. I have deducted that it must have been the chlorophyll in the useless leaves that must have made it thicken up. I threw the mess and smoked the small bit, it was nice so that was the good thing..
      Last night I made attempt number 2..in the pot went the ice and then premium sugar leaf only. Mix mix mix..mix mix mix mix mix...
      the first 2 bags drained nice and quick, 160, 90 micron..result a small piece..5 pipes I reckon..next bag, 73 micron..nicer stuff..5 pipes maybe..
      the last bag which took all night to drain, 25 micron, gave up probably 10 little nice pipes..
       
      The liquid after mixing was a watery green mixture unlike the green "milkshake" from my first attempt..
      I am glad it went the learn by mistakes way as the right result was achieved in the end and I now have faith in my ability to make proper hash from now on..dry ice is getting hunted down next time..
       

    • Guest LilSprout
      By Guest LilSprout
      Abused often and misunderstood frequently. Let me start by clarifying :
      The terms -hash,- concentrate, -extract ARE ALL REFERRING TO THE SAME THING!!! They’re just different terms used to describe when the active ingredient,(trichomes, or the dome heads on the trichomes) in marijuana has been separated from the plant. Hash is just extracted and concentrated active ingredient!
      There are 2 important things to know when buying hash,

      First, The extraction method. There’s about four or five types of extractions. What extraction method was used to remove the active ingredients (trichomes) from the plant to create the hash you see. Was it “water and ice” extracted?… Otherwise known as bubble hash!!! Was it a butane extracted? Known as BHO!!! Was it solvent extracted (acetone/iso/everclear)? Was it Co2 extracted (dry ice or gas)?

      Second, it’s important to know the strain(s) name(s) of marijuana used for the extraction; this will give you the lineage and genetics so you can know what to expect when the effects kick in..
      Ok as i was saying there’s 4 or 5 types of hash you’ll see in southern California co-op’s. There should only be 4 or 5 type of hash followed by the strain name when you buy hash.in any co-op anywhere in california.

      1. Keef, Kif, kief… (isnt really even a hash or concentrate so you shouldn’t even see this in the concentrate section but i will add it just to be PC.)
      It’s either loose and sold by the gram or it’s pressed and sometimes heated to make hard hash, shady vendors or shops will say this is bubble hash but it is not. The color of pressed and heated kief ranges from blond to black in color. You can see the plant matter in the hash when broken open. It’s made by taking marijuana and shaking it over fine screens. Not the purest product in terms of removal of plant matter and harmful combustibles but it Works great for butter or oil extraction for edibles. But, Just make hash and get 100% of your thc extracted and then put that into your , food grade glycerine, oil or butter! Simple things like maximizing your extrraction amount and the cleanliness of hash makes huge difference between recreational and medical. Anyway for you smokers out there ….This product does not bubble or melt when heated. I don’t recommend smoking it, as it’s not much purer than just smoking bud itself.

      2. Bubble Hash (water+ice)
      It comes in many grades from light beige to golden to dark black depending on purity. The general rule is the lighter the color the better, the more it melts the purer it is. So dark color hash= plant matter and contaminants. light colored hash= purity and quality. Some are soft and moist and pressed like silly puddy (i avoid these) while some are un pressed, smell great and look like sand. The natural state is unpressed. pressing it till it’s hard chunk before it’s dry has terrible effects on quality. It should be dry as beach sand when dried/cured properly. As i always say, smoking water isn’t productive. Sorry to repeat myself but trying to make a point there. You’ll see this product under the name bubble hash, crystals, trichomes and If your super lucky you may come across Full Melt Bubble which is the ultimate in organic purity of concentrated cannabinoids, it melts 100% and leaves little to no ash when smoked. If it doesnt melt to a liquid 100% then you have been taken by false advertising. Trust me the co-op knows if it melts and to what percentage it melts, they can be honest and truthful but most just choose to say full melt for any bubble hash that seems to bubble or melt to any degree. It takes several ounces of top shelf buds to make a gram or two of full melt bubble in many cases. The best full melts are usually sativa, indicas don’t always melt 100%. This product and process is organic in nature. It’s the same idea as kief and screens but its all done under ice cold water making a much purer product by up to 50%. Bubble hash is great for culinary use, especially full melt. When heated, bubble hash will slightly bubble due to small amounts of water trapped when the oil glands burst from being pressed together.(hash makers: be gentle with your bubble hash until it’s totally chopped up and bone dry on cardboard for days.)

      3. Solvent Reduced (acetone, alcohol based)
      Named hash oil, honey oil, full melt hash oil and black gold among other names. It’s made by soaking plant material for a certain amount of time in the chemical of choice. The longer the plant material soaks the darker the extract will be. you can usually spot this stuff from its darker color and in some cases even dark green or black. Also full melt, it turns to a puddle of oil when heated. Product should look waxy but when touched be hard as a rock, beware of liquid or strong fume smells in the product that’s leftover chemical not evaporated from the extraction.

      4. Butane Hash Oil (BHO)
      When it’s bomb. you can tell by the structure and color of it. It’s not all oily and leaving stickiness all over the container, in fact you can easily handle it like bubble hash. In co-op’s this falls under the names goo, earwax, honey oil, amber glass, moon rocks, “full melt” and a few other various aliases (i really don’t like that name game just call it what it is).BHO Is made by passing butane over marijuana buds and plant material. At room temp the hash is soft like ear wax and when very pure it is hard like glass. When heated it turns into a puddle of clear to yellowish amber oil. This is Full Melt But not to be confused with full melt bubble hash which is the water and ice extract…. Easily confusing. Butane makes this process non organic. Excellent for culinary use. Extremely potent and pure the smell and taste are totally left intact while the plant matter and other useless garbage is gone.

      5. (a) Dry Ice method. It’s called shiva crystals, 95% thc, gold dust and/or moon rocks plus a few more names. Product is usually rather pure due to the extra cold temps that cleanly break the trichome domes away from the plant with less plant matter going through the screens and therefor less contamination of the final product. It’s like ultra clean kief. To make this hash, dry ice is shaken with plant material and allowed to fall through screens or it’s added to the bucket of water in the bubble hash process . The final product when shaken over screens is a gold flake or powder. Sometimes will melt in warm environments.

      5. (b ) CO2 in tank under pressure gas/liquid state. It’s made just like the butane process but, co2 is much colder, safer (besides the high pressure) and occurs everywhere in life around us. The very best co2 hash is called amber glass, (just like butane) it should be stable, or hard at room temperature. co2 products will be full melt and taste extremely sweet and delicious. Extremely potent.

      ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————-

      Final notes:
      Ok so 80% of the hash out there are just made up catchy names such as the most recent “death rockets” i can only grimace and say,”really”? death rockets? what a insult to hash and patients. I’ve seen names like moon rocks, bark hash, toostsie wheels, gold flakes, black gold, white gold, nectar, oil, full melt, full melt oil, honey, wax, goo and it goes on and on BUT, those names don’t mean anything to anyone. Don’t panic or be confused by names because there are only so many types of hash extractions out there, just become familiar with them and their final products and you will eventually just know what’s what.
      Also just like in regular green uncured marijuana, chlorophyll is extremely harsh, tastes sorta “green” like front lawn mowing’s mixed with raw mint. So keep your eye out and stay clear of deep dark green oils if possible.
      THC extractions (hash) should smell/taste similar if not exactly or even better then the strain they were made from.

      The Golden Rule:
      Hash will only be as strong as the strain of marijuana it was made from.
       
      CLICK>>>>The Art & Science Of Cleaning Concentrates, Part 1&2
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